Thursday 14 April 2011

The Gallus Weegie chat with the founder of the Scottish Fashion Awards - Tessa Hartmann


Image sourced from www.lunchwithanoldbag.com


Q1.   Now into its 6th year, the Scottish Fashion Awards continues to be a major date for Scottish fashion. As the founder and producer of the awards, did you ever think it would be as successful as it has become when you first started out?

I guess I knew it had the potential to be as big, with the abundance of talent we have from Scotland,  but one never is that conceited to say that I knew it would be that big! But I wanted it 'sooo badly' to be huge, I think we are on our way! 

Q2.   What sparked your interest in fashion?

My mother - now in her seventies, she is still one of the most glamorous women I know. Whether it was a Chanel blazer over jeans and a white t-shirt or a track suit, this lady knows what works and how to carry it - the latter being the most important ingredient in fashion. If you can't carry it off, get it off!

Q3.   What made you decide to set up your company and introduce the awards in the first place?

I worked in Washington DC and London in event and PR and decided to return to Scotland to set up a specialised fashion / lifestyle PR & brand marketing agency. We were the first truly specialised fashion / lifestyle, beauty and entertainment PR based in Scotland. It was weird because having come home from London where every agency has a speciality, here the PR companies will do anything. This always bemuses me! How can work be an expert in medicine, law or property and then take on a fashion or beauty account. We get offered PR opportunities outside our area of expertise all the time but we turn them down. Not in a conceted way, but simply for the fact that our absolute knowledge base and experience is in this sector. Calling a property journo one minute and then fashion editor the next just doesn't work!
I decided to set up the fashion awards because I kept meeting incredible Scottish people in the world of fashion. No one really knew who they were. However, if we think think of what London did for Galliano, the late McQueen was incredible. They put them on a platform. They hailed their roots, they provided a platform which was amazing. That is what I set out to today. Creatives can work anywhere in the word, as long as they are hailing their heritage with pride and the Scottish Fashion Awards can provide that platform and awareness, then we're doing out job!





Q4.    As the organiser and one of the judges on the panel for the awards, how do you decide upon who wins what? What is it that you look for in the rising talent?  



The judging process is actually really complicated and quite rightly so. It is all done on line via a secure website that each judge logs into. The judges have a series of questions for each nominee in each category which are scored. From creativity, innovation, commercial success, etc. There is a biography, web links and imagery for each candidate - it takes us such a long time to prepare but it is worth it. I think that is why we have achieved such international credibility because each judge realises what is involved. The programme submits each judges score and we will end up with a winner with the highest score. It takes the judges many hours to go through all that information and detail and we are very grateful to them.
In terms of rising talent, I guess it's the old cliche of 'innovation'. But truly something that is really a step ahead of the game. Original, not borrowed, eye catching. But something that is really important is for the talent to have an understanding of their craft. Someone who learns the basics, from pattern cutting, sewing, someone who has an eye for fabric structure. It's no use preparing a drawing if you haven't the first clue about putting it together.

Q5.    ‘Fashion Ambassador’ is a new category which has been added to the awards this year, why did you decide to include this? And who or what do you think makes a great ambassador for Scotland?

I am really excited about this category for the simple reason that there are so many people out there in the world who support Scottish fashion talent and indeed these awards. Whether they are pushing the use of Scottish textiles, whether they cover the fashion talents internationally or indeed have supported the Scottish fashion industry as a whole from their own discipline. This is about encouraging more international fashion Scots to shout about our nation of talented creatives. We have also just appointed Scottish actress Louise Linton who lives in Los Angeles as an International Fashion Ambassador which is amazing. Living in LA, we can encourage her to wear Scottish fashion brands, support our industry and most importantly talk about it in film circles. This is the kind of relationships we are now starting to build around the world, which is exciting. We are going to be announcing a few more before the awards also. Photographers, supermodels and such like who are going to be singing from the heavens about 'Fashion Scotland' - that is adrenaline fuelling for me!

Q6.   For the 2nd year in a row the awards are being held at Glasgow’s Science Centre, what made you decide to relocate from Stirling to Glasgow City Centre?  What is it about the city that you find inspiring?

We first went to Stirling to position the event as a national event - not a Glasgow or Edinburgh local event, but national and ultimately international. Stirling is the home of our first parliament, historically it holds great significant in our history and made the perfect setting to our incredible fashion talent. Plus we brought over so many international guests and American fashion editors they were simply stunned at the incredible castle, tartan carpet and full on Oscar style glamour - all taking place in the Highlands no less! As the event grew sadly the venue couldn't. Our max capacity for Gala dinner guests was 250 which was really just too small. We approached the council to put up a marquee in the castle car park but they refused, which to this day astounds me. There is no shadow of a doubt Stirling Castle never had some much global press coverage than they did with the fashion awards. As I say, this isn't just a celebration of Scottish fashion, its a celebration of a fashionable Scotland. However, I'm a firm believer that everything happens for a reason. It was our 5th anniversary and we wanted to step away from history and highlight 21st innovation - what better place to do that than the Science Centre. The Guggenheim in NYC, the Louvre in Paris have all been used for major fashion events - the Glasgow Science Centre is our equivalent.
From a logistical and production viewpoint, the space is phenomenal. We take over the entire building and we have a full day to set up and evening before for a catwalk rehearsal. Believe it or not, the castle was a nightmare as we could only get in to set up from 4pm on the day so all sets etc had to be built off site and we never had time for a rehearsal - sometimes we can't actually believe we pulled it off but we did! Stirling Castle will always remain in our history and it was the most magnificent setting to launch this celebration of fashion but it's time to move on with the trends.

Q7.   How would you sum up Scottish style? And more specifically, how would you describe Glasgow style?
I think we need to get away from the whole Glasgow/Edinburgh style distinctions. Of course there are many between the two cities. However, if we want our worlds to hail on the pages of media around the world, we need to start thinking collectively and describe ourselves as a cohesive group, each with individual traits. In that vain, I think the Scots have an incredible fashion sense. An ecletic mix of part bohemian musician to catwalk bombshell, keen to experiment with on trend looks. The city folk are adventurous, keen to play with bold, bright colours, chunky plaform sandals but most of all dazzle with their charisma and personality - that's what truly distinguishes the Scots and makes them loved around the world!

Q8.   What advice would you have for those who are interested in being involved in the fashion industry?

Hard work, more hard work and even more hard work. Learn your trade to perfection; try and get the invaluable work experience that is so necessary to survive today. There are too many young designers who leave further education and try to start their own label. I think this is very risky and unless you have been scouted in advance, somewhat naive. Get a job with a label or fashion brand, understand the business model of fashion,  from the clothes to how they actually get to the retail floor, the branding, the merchandising and the marketing. There is always room for hungry kids, it all depends on how hungry you are! 


To find out more about the Scottish Fashion Awards visit http://www.scottishfashionawards.com/

The Gallus Weegie chat with Jade Halbert - stylist and owner of "The Dressers Room".

Q1. Having studied at London College of Fashion, why is it that you chose to base yourself and your business in Glasgow?


I moved to London when I was 17 and graduated when I was 20, so really I just wanted to come home and see everyone properly for a while, then I just got settled into a routine and stayed! The reason the business started was because there really aren’t many ‘ready made’ fashion jobs in Scotland, and if you want to work in that field and live up here you need to do things for yourself.



Q2. Why did you decide to become a stylist rather than a designer?



To put it bluntly, I couldn’t design a plain white t-shirt! There’s a huge difference between having an appreciation for design and actually having the talent to design. Stylists and designers do completely different things; stylists consider the whole image, not just the clothes, to create something magical and to embroider and enhance the designer’s vision. 


Q3. What is involved in the styling process?

Well, it depends on the sort of styling. Obviously commercial and editorial styling and completely different to personal styling, which is what I do. Personal styling is so much more about understanding people and their lifestyles and how clothes fit into that. 


Q4. Do you have any tips for people who are looking to become stylists themselves?



Get a really solid, relevant degree. It’s fine to graduate with say, and English degree, but you’ll need to work ten times harder than someone who has a degree in fashion. Also, be prepared to work long and hard for no money for years; the fashion industry is super competitive and you need to be very resilient and resourceful to get ahead. Also, always remember to be nice to people no matter how tired or frustrated you are, a smile goes a long way. 



Q5. You own a store as well as doing the freelance styling, which do you enjoy most?



I love both; they’re very different, but if I’m honest I prefer the styling aspect as every client is different and every day is different.



Q6. How difficult is it to source the items in your store?



Very, it takes time to build a network of contacts to get the really top notch vintage.



Q7. Like everyone involved in fashion you must have a style icon, who is yours?



It’s a toss up between Joan Crawford, Patsy Stone and Jean Shrimpton.



Q8. If you had to choose to live in another time based on the fashion of that era, where would you choose?

Without a doubt the interwar years (1918-1939) from the decadent 20s to the sleek, glamorous 30s, I’d love it. My own vintage collection is full of clothes from this era, I just think the fabric, the design and the workmanship are superb.

Q9. Do you find Glasgow to be an inspiration in your styling?

Not particularly, I find my clients to be the biggest inspiration when I’m styling. I think Glasgow style is pretty flashy and juvenile and it doesn’t appeal to me at all, but I’d say that about most British cities, not just Glasgow! 

Q10. Finally, what are you top 5 tips to great styling? And what are your top 5 style don’ts?

Top do’s:
Do invest in jackets and coats, nothing finishes a look more eloquently.
Do wear vintage wisely; nothing looks worse than a tatty old 60s dress matched with a moth eaten old fur coat. Just because it’s old doesn’t mean it’s vintage.
Do spend wisely; it’s always better to have a really gorgeous, leather handbag to wear with few outfits than a hundred plastic ones.
Do pay attention to hair and make up, and glasses if you wear them. They have a huge impact on your overall look. 
Do choose the best fabrics you can afford and look after them properly, they’ll last a lifetime.

Top don’ts:
Don’t match your accessories, it looks frumpy and unoriginal.
Don’t wear clothes that are too small, it will make you look bigger than you are.
Don’t dismiss the classics as boring. The perfect Breton, the perfect patent heel, the perfect trench coat, all classics that will add so much to your wardrobe.
Don’t follow the crowd. Just because everyone else is wearing too much eyeliner and ripped tights doesn’t mean you have to.
Don’t take on a whole trend at once, take one key item and blend it in with your own wardrobe, it’s so much more subtle and original.

You can find Jade at http://www.the-dresser.com/

The Gallus Weegie chat with fashion designer Ben De Lisi

Image from www.bendelisi.com
Q1. Being a successful designer yourself and having previously been a mentor on the show Project Catwalk, what advice would you give to aspiring designers today?


Keep your eyes open and talk very little. Sketch everything that inspires you and learn how to sew. If you don't sew it's harder to know what is possible or not. Also remember fashion is not just about drawing pretty sketches it's about business.


Q2. Who or what would you consider to have been the most influential to your career? Are there any Scottish style icons which you have?


My paternal grandmother who taught me to sew, and my parents who said "you can be what ever you want and have what ever you want, just work hard and it will come.


Q3. What made you want to become a designer in the first place?


Not being able to afford the clothes I wanted when I was a teenager, so I made them.


Q4. You have been a successful designer for over 30years now, where do you get your inspiration from and how do you continue to produce designs which are fresh?


I take my inspiration from the 1950's and artists such as Picasso, Kandinsky, Rothko, Nicholsen etc. Also early Geoffry Beene, Calvin Klein, Halston and Claire McCardell.
Debenhams has the largest and most impressive collection of designers under their umbrella and such creates a forward and a dynamic fashion collection.


Q5. Being at the helm of Principles and having one of the largest selling ranges in the womenswear designers at Debenhams portfolio, you have that connection with the highstreet, do you feel that street style is becoming more influential in today’s fashion collections?


I think that I am a very privileged designer to be able to reach such a large customer base. I think that in the economic climate like this, its very cool to mix designer high street pieces with designer main ranges.


Q6. Do you find it easier designing for the highstreet compared to the high fashion catwalk shows?


The design process is the same, I take both very seriously.


Q7. As our blog is on Glasgow street style, we have to ask, what is your opinion on Glasgow’s sense of style?


Individual, confident, and bold. 


Q8. Our bias aside, where do you think has the best street style?

I am afraid LONDON and NEW YORK.


Q9. For our fashion forward readers, who would you consider to be the designer of the moment?


Richard Nicol and Johnathan Saunders. 


Q10. Finally, what is next for you?


A villa by the beach on an island somewhere, where I can paint and sculpt.


You can find more information about Ben De Lisi at http://www.bendelisi.com/

NightWalk
When: 22nd April 2011 ( 10pm - 2am)
Where: The Arches
Info: Showcasing fashion, electronic music, visual art, performance art  
and photography.  Proceeds go to local charity St Margaret's Hospice.



For more information and how to get tickets visit - www.thearches.co.uk/events
Image from http://www.ticketmaster.co.uk/
Fresh and Faded
When: Monday 25th April 2011 7pm
Where: Oran Mor, Great Western Road
Info: Fashion event in aid of Yorkhill Children's Foundation.



For more information visit http://www.oran-mor.co.uk/ or email freshandfaded@hotmail.co.uk

This event features a little boutique called 'Just For You' which is situated in Cresswell Lane in the West End.  It is a lovely boutique which offers party nights where you and your friends can get styled by a professional stylist and will have your hair and make-up done in prepartion for a professional photoshoot.  Pop in and speak to the owner or else email her at justinamcglaughlin@rocketmail.com.
                                                      Judy's Affordable Vintage Fair

When: Sunday 8th May 2011  12pm-5pm
Where: Queen Margret Union, University Gardens
Info: "Judy's Affordable Vintage Fair will be back in Glasgow in 2011. We hope you are all ready and raring to shop as we have over 40 carefully selected stalls to tempt you with.  With the most sought after traders from all over the UK, from major cities like Manchester, Liverpool, Edinburgh and London, this is one fair you really can't miss.

                                    For more information visit http://www.vintagefair.co.uk/




 
Fashion show with House of Fraser

When: 12th May 2011
Where: The Corinthian Club
Starts: 8pm

Come along and see the summer's hottest fashion collections from House of Fraser in our luxurious wine & champagne bar boutique. This is a FREE event.